I'm going for a thin, easy to apply styling aid that's not too thick.  I'm calling it a serum for now, but you can call it hair milk or a light cream if you prefer.  I don't care if it's clear so I'm going to use the fabulous Lotionpro 165 (arlacel 165) to emulsify everything. It's a blend of Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate and it doesn't add any thickness.

I'm always working on #formulas, even when I'm not posting them at the website.  For Patreon members, I post early versions of formulas so you guys can look at them, test them yourselves, see if they work, see how they feel, improve them etc. (✿◠‿◠)

This is what I have so far:

PHASE A

64.8 - 64.5%  Distilled water

3%  Propanediol

10%  Fenugreek seed aqueous extract ("tea")

PHASE B

3% Shea oil

2% Pistachiol nut oil

2% Natrasil [Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables]

0.2% Polymulse Polymeric Emulsifier (OR 0.5% Sepimax Zen)

4% Lotionpro 165 [Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate]

PHASE C

4% Hairfix XH

3% VP/VA copolymer 70/30 liquid

3% LC 1684 [Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethicone]

0.4%   Lemon Balm extract

0.6%   Fragrance

q.s. color

What I Plan To Do

In Vessel #1

#Combine PHASE A ingredients

In Vessel #2

#Combine PHASE B ingredients

Continue...

#Heat PHASE A and PHASE B to 70℃

#Remove from heat

#Combine and mix well. High shear is preferred.

#Let cool to 40℃. Avoid high shear below this temp.

Continue...

#Add PHASE C ingredients

#Mix well. 

#Transfer to final container.

TIPS

#The percentage of distilled water with depend on whether you choose to use Polymulse Polymeric Emulsifier (Pemulen EZ-4U) or Sepimax Zen. I have them at different amounts because the Pemulen is very strong at a much lower percentage. 

#Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethicone here is the thicker one made to add shine to hair care products

#Lotionpro 165 is an allegedly 'cant-miss' emulsifier so  you shouldn't have problems

#Lotionpro 165 does not add any thickening to the product on it's own.  The polymulse polymeric emulsifier may help with that. But mostly it's an emulsion stabilizer.

#If you don't have the VP/VA copolymer 70/30 liquid blend,  use Hairfix XH at 6% and replace the other 1% with another extract, glycerin or water.  I want hold so a little initial "crunch" and humidity resistance is necessary.

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